TEXTILES OF KERALA

INTRODUCTION

Kerala's silky, gossamer-thin off-white cottons stand out as a mark of refined grace because they are trimmed with golden borders and have lovely motifs.

 Kerala weavers produce fabrics with beautiful design and enticing beauty using delicate unbleached off white fine cotton yarn..The mastery of design creation is the foundation of Keralan weavers' artistic sensibility. The natural world serves as an endless source of inspiration for Keralan weavers. These textiles' elaborate patterns include geometric shapes as well as images of parrots, peacocks, lotuses, leaves, and creepers, which are all found in nature. One fine piece of weaving frequently requires many days to complete, depending on how intricate the motifs are. Additionally, each work is a special example of the artist's talent. The weaver uses sentiment and emotion in addition to yarn when making her creations. The warp and weft of some of the highest grade fabrics are made from finely spun cotton with a 200 count. These materials are now woven into saris, two-piece Kerala mundus, popular salwar kameez and dresses, bedspreads, tablecloths, and napkins, among other things.

MOTIFS OF KERALA TEXTILES

Kerala, also referred to as "God's own nation," is rich in textiles. The "Karalakudi sari," also known as the "Kerala sari," is a representation of Kerala's rich culture and history. It is made of hand-woven, entirely unbleached cotton fabrics. It is renowned for the high calibre of its weaving. This sari's classic pattern features an off-white simple body with a 1- to 6-inch-long golden border, or "pallu." These days, this sari is offered with border materials that are a blend of cotton and silk in checks, stripes, and several other patterns.

The unbleached cotton handloom fabric known as "kora" cloth is well-known not just in Kerala but has also made an appearance on the global market and is in high demand. In Kerala, Balramapuram in the Thrivanathapuram district is well known for its handloom textiles. The Ernakulam district's Chennamangalam handlooms are renowned for producing pure cotton and silk textiles. Its remarkable weft effects and excellent weaving were what gave it its distinctiveness.

One could consider the saris from Kasargod in North Kerala to be works of genius. It generates a variety of designs, colour patterns, and embellished with zaris and borders thanks to its premium yarn and distinctive hand weaving style. To make the fabric durable and resistant, a unique type of paste is applied. Half fine zari is used to create Koothampalli kasavu sari. Due to its potentially low cost, middle-class consumers are those who typically buy it.

BALARAMAPURAM

One of the panchayats that make up Trivandrum, Kerala's capital city, is Balaramapuram. It is the primary location for the manufacture of traditional handloom textiles designed for Kerala's modern fabric-wearing culture.

A significant trading hub for goods like apparel, food, furniture, electronics, and metals is Balaramapuram.

Balaramapuram saw the introduction of handloom weaving for the first time between 1799 and 1810, under His Highness Maharaja Balaramavarma.

The Delava of Maharaja obliged seven weaving families (Shaliars) to settle at Balaramapuram in a separate area that is now known as "Shaliar Street" in order to create fabrics for the members of the royal family. To facilitate the marketing of items, markets were opened in practical locations. These seven families left behind descendants, who now live on the street. Mr. Ponnan alias Appu panicker from Thannivila is a renowned weaver who taught the trade to others in this area. He is one of the most well-known weaving experts.

The location itself, Balaramapuram, was given that name in honour of the monarch who promoted industry in this area.

To create solely cotton fabrics with pure zeri, the weavers utilise ancient throw-shuttle pit looms. They do not create designs for cloth with additional warp and additional weft using any form of enhanced machinery, such as Dobby, Jacquard, Jala, etc. This method of weaving results in designs having the exact same appearance on both the front and back of the cloth, including warp and weft stripes.

The sort of loom or weaving technology used to produce these types hasn't changed yet. The "Pudava and Kavani" variation (veshti and top cloth with pure zeri) is still given as a priceless bridal present in weddings. Even the most discerning customers are drawn to the designs made with coloured yarn or zeri using an antiquated technique.

The Handloom Development Corporation and Hantex currently purchase the majority of the hand-woven clothing made in this region. The colony's residents have found it challenging to persist in the same field of activity as a result of the development of power looms in the weaving industry and the decline in the prices of related goods. As a result, the younger generations are pursuing higher education and alternative employment to make ends meet.

Ayurvastra, a branch of the 5,000-year-old Indian healthcare system known as Vedic Ayurveda, is a new idea in the handloom business that has recently been introduced in this region. Ayurvastra, loosely translated from the Sanskrit words for "health" and "clothing," means "healthy fabrics," The Department of Industries and Commerce, the Department of Government Ayurveda College, and the Directorate of Handloom jointly launched the Ayurvastra project with the intention of filling a market gap for environmentally friendly wellness textiles. A 50-year-old Balaramapuram handloom company called Kairali Exports exports fabrics under the Ayurvastra brand to the US (ayurtex.com) and Europe.

KASARGOD SAREES

It is particularly well-known for the "Kasargod Saree," a traditional, ethnic, and branded saree. It was made specifically for the ruler who had ruled Karnataka many years ago by the Shalia community of people, who are claimed to have settled in this area of Kerala. The Kasargod saree was given its name since it was a typical saree that was only woven in Kasargod. It is reported that there used to be 500 families of weavers who worked on their weaving at home. If the mother and father were weavers, the children would have contributed to the works as well.

Because Kerala experiences a predominantly humid climate, more cotton sarees are often woven. There are fewer Kasargod art silk sarees available than cotton ones. The Kasargod Weaver's Society has taken the lead by providing the Schedule caste and Schedule tribe members with training and a monthly stipend, which is typically granted during the training time. Once they have gained weaving skills, they will later be paid by the piece or by the length of cloth they have weaved.

 CHENDAMANGALAM

 The handloom weaving cluster in Chendamangalam is renowned for its gold standard excellence. The weaving of Chendamangalam was first primarily performed for the Paliam family's royal members, who served as the Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Cochin. The women of this royal dynasty used to display their class and dignity via clothing by donning Neriyathu, Kasavu Dhoti, Kasavu Sarees, and other sorts of Chendamangalam handloom garments. Men used to dress in a simple, white, fine-muslin dhoti.

There are two fascinating anecdotes related to how this handloom skill was brought to this area. According to one legend, the Devanga Chettiar group, which had settled in Chendamangalam town in the 16th century for the Paliath Achan royal family, the Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Cochin, is responsible for the beginning of the weaving tradition there. The Chettiar community first made excellent muslin dhotis before beginning to weave. The weaving job met the king's approval. As a result, under the patronage of the nobles of Cochin, Chendamangalam's handloom soon began to flourish, producing sarees and other fabrics.

According to another legend, weaving in this town dates back to King Jayanath's dominion over Chendamangalam, which was then known as "Jayanath Mangalam," when Chendamangalam was under his control. The delicacy and majesty of the country's northern counterpart enthralled King Jayanath, who yearned for the same in his territory. Devanga Chettiar group, from the state of Karnataka, was invited because of their reputation for having special weaving talents. Soon after, in the Chendamangalam, Kuthampully, and Chittoor districts, after King Jayanth was pleased with the community's weaving prowess.

 

The quality of Chendamangalam weaving is what gives it its distinctiveness. The weavers labour in a way that creates harmony between their physical body and their minds, devoting their minds and souls to the machinery. Set Mundu and Dhoti, which are the Chendamangalam weaving's two primary products, are well known. People in this town still hold on to the misconception that the cotton muslin dhotis made by the Chendamangalam weavers are so fine that they could squeeze through a ring, despite the fact that this is a hoax. This is due to the rumour that this cluster weaves in 100 and 120 count fine yarn. Another notable characteristic of this weaving is that all of the Ernakulam district's handloom garment producers already use machines.The weavers of Chendamanglam, however, continue to utilise organic and natural dyes in addition to the traditional hand-weaving method. As a result, despite years of repeated washings, the fabric still looks new because of the natural colours used in colouring. The exceptional calibre of Chendamangalam handloom weaving is thus guaranteed. Due to the town's sincere adherence to earlier customs, respect for this community and its weavers continues to this day. Today, this location is well known not just on a national level but also across the world for its varied hand-woven cotton fabrics.

The traditional dhotis and sarees for men and women that the Chendamangalam cluster was once well known for are being produced there today. The purpose of these clothing hasn't changed despite the fact that the designs have changed.

For men, this region is still home to the Chendamangalam Dhoti. The Chendamangalam weavers construct an exquisite muslin garment that is left unstitched. The simple body and kasavu border of Chendamangalam's dhoti serve as common indicators of identification. The major portion of the dhoti is left white and unbleached. Every border, however, is either made of simple gold or coloured zari in shades of purple, blue, green, and black..

The Chendamangalam saree and set mundu are well-known for women. The oldest surviving piece of the female saree is the set mundu, which is regarded as the traditional clothing. The Set Mundu, also known as "Mundum Neriyathum," is made out of Mundu for covering the bottom body and Neriyathu for wrapping around the upper body. In essence, it functions like a dupatta over the blouse. The Neriyathu, also known as Kavani, and the Dhoti, also known as Mundu, make up the set mundu. This item can be purchased separately or as part of a set that also includes a dhoti and a neriyathu.

KUTHAMPULLY

Kuthampully is a traditional cotton weaving village located around 50 kilometres northeast of Thrissur. Here, 600 Brahmin families create some of the nation's most distinctive sarees. The handloom weaving known as kasavu is very well known. The Devanga community is where the majority of the locals come from. They can trace their ancestry to Karnataka in the present. According to legend, the Kochi Royal family brought this community of traditional weavers here some 500 years ago so they could work exclusively for the palace..

 The primary representative of the locals, Kuthampully Handloom Industrial Co-operative Society was founded in 1972 and has 102 members. They have made sure that historical customs are not lost. The set mundu, veshti, and double dhoti are further well-known clothing items made in Kasavu. Designer clothing is made using modern weaving processes to keep up with fashion. A number of small enterprises and entrepreneurial endeavours employ over 3000 people. Witnessing an entire community work so diligently and persistently toward a common goal is a rare experience.

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